So, we booked into a B&B located in an old brothel and got on our luxury coach. We missed our first bus by 3 minutes and had to wait three hours for the next one but it turned out better as we ended up on the luxury coach for not much more money. It was like an airplane. We had reclining seats with foot rests, wifi, individual LCD screens with about 30 movies to choose from (all dubbed in Spanish unfortunately), snacks and an on board toilet.
We arrived after a pleasant journey albeit three hours late and headed straight to the city centre to find some drinks and dinner. The streets of San Miguel are spectacular. Old Colonial style brightly coloured houses, cobbled streets, tree lined plazas and a church that looks like something out of Walt Disney but in a good way.
We wandered up the hill to find a small saloon bar I had read about that served the best ceviche. We found it up a back street and we had a wonderful meal of cerviche on tostadas, aquachile and fish tacos washed down with icy cold Corona. Perfect!!!
Roberto, the guy who welcomed us at our hotel, also works in the local posh nightclub and had told us to go there later in the night so we headed off to find a bar for some drinks first. We had a recommendation from a friend of Marcela's but as we were walking down the road we heard the strains of Mariachi music. We found a tiny bar on a corner street with saloon style doors and a mariachi band all in white spilling into the street. We hustled in to find three big tables of Mexicans, two spare seats at the bar and not a single foreigner. Result. A couple of G&T's in and some amazing Mariachi music later we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves. Now, I had been astounded to notice that there was a table of about ten men, some of whom were wearing Mariachi jackets, cowboy boots or large hats. The most astounding thing about it was that they were all my height, or much taller. And all Mexican. I was amazed. Had I reached my Mecca? Was this were I would meet my six foot Jesus? They had consumed a large volume of tequila and had been eyeing us off when two of them finally got the courage up to come and talk to us. One of them was a bit older and had a Tom Selleck moustache and the other was thankfully about 6ft4, younger and better looking. The younger one was quite nice but unfortunately the older one was creepy and all over poor Marcela who looked absolutely terrified. They were real 'machos' which is what they are called in Mexico and were truck owners from the next state. It got to the point when we had to make an excuse we had to leave to meet a friend and that yes, we would definitely meet them at the club previously mentioned. Tom Selleck announced he would come with us to make sure we came to El Grito (the nightclub) but somehow we managed to escape. It was a shame as the younger one was actually not too bad but they were becoming a bit possessive and over the top. We ended up going home as it was after midnight by then and we nearly ran into them again in the main square when we were regrouping which made our decision for us. We were upset not to have gone to El Grito and more upset to find our the next day from Roberto that there was no way that they would have been let in! Dammit!
The next day (Sunday) was our only full day and the day of the Festival. It involved about 50 floats with people in masks and costumes throwing lollies, blaring music in a procession style through the town. It was awesome and we skipped in and out of the procession throughout the day while wandering the side streets and visiting the local markets. I was still on the hunt for some cowboy boots but we just couldn't find any good ones. We had a wonderful day topped off by a gorgeous meal on a rooftop terrace overlooking the main church while fireworks went off. Some amazing churros con chocolate finished us and the day off and we rolled into bed.
(One of the best outfits of the day)
We headed back to Mexico City in anticipation of our booking at Pujol that night which had been voted 17th in the Worlds best restaurants. Sadly we were to find out that it was cancelled as there had been an earthquake (5.8) on Saturday night and the kitchen had been damaged. Dammit! Next time Gadget, next time. So we did what all good Mexicans do-we went and had tacos.
My last day in Mexico City dawned and I headed off to see Frida Kahlos house and the other house she and Diego shared as they are in suburbs near to each other. I had been desperate to go and headed off with Adam (the Tasmanian we met in Oaxaca) but was disappointed to find on arrival that most of Frida's house was closed for renovation but we managed to see her bedroom and studio which was exactly how she left it. Amazing. There was also a temporary exhibition of a stash of her clothes and jewellery that had recently been found which was spectacular. The other house was the first modernistic house built in Mexico and we were able to see Diego's studio which was beautiful and full of plenty of Mexican art and nick nacks. A last minute trip to the Artesan Market and a wonderful meal with all Patti and Marcela's family topped off a fantastic last day.
A great post! Thank you. My wife and I chose San Miguel de Allende seven years ago for its combination of climate, culture and the basic warmth of its people. I became interested in the process of becoming an expat and wrote a book based on conversations with 32 Americans and Canadians who had also made the move. It's mainly a way of getting inside their heads. Whether you’re thinking of settling on the beach, or in one of the colonial cities of the interior, you need to listen to this conversation. It's called San Miguel de Allende: A Place in the Heart, and there is no other book like it. Here's a link to an excerpt on my website:
ReplyDeletewww.sanmiguelallendebooks.com/aplaceintheheart.html