Six and a half hours on a bus from Mexico City gets you to Oaxaca (pronounced Waa-ha-car) -the Mexican state famous for food and textiles. I knew this was, for me, not to be missed. Marcela and I set off with a packed lunch and instructions to hide any valuables down the gap in our seat and I had my secret money pouch in its secret place....it tends to make you really nervous when the Mexicans are nervous. The buses here are pretty comfortable and show nonstop movies-sometimes with subtitles and sometimes with hilariously dubbing. It made me wonder if they get the same people to do the voice overs for a particular actor-or is it a different one each time? If there is noise with no dialogue ie: screaming or dare I say panting, is that dubbed or left as the original? I don't know but with 6 1/2 hours to kill I spent a bit of time thinking about it.
We arrived to find it hotter and more humid than Mexico City and we soon found our way to our B&B El Diablo y Sandia (The Devil and the Watermelon). Now, Marcela and I were doing the old 'if you could do anything what would it be' game on the bus and I had stated that I would love to open a cafe that did typical Mexican breakfasts and lunches with plain white walls, really courful hand painted furniture and kooky Mexican decorations which had a small hot sauce and textile shop on the side. Just a thought. Anyway, we walked into the B&B and were shocked into silence as this was it, but a B&B. Check out the website-F'ing A.
Maria the owner is kooky, friendly and likes to wear her hair in a Frida Kahloesque manor. We were given a warm welcome, map and a handful of recommendations. We were also introduced to the guy in the room next to us who hilariously lives in Hobart and runs a cafe that I love. Small world! The clouds were looking ominous so we headed off in the direction of the market to get some mole and hot chocolate-two things that Oaxaca is famous for. Unfortunately we only made it half way before the heavens opened and we were forced to find shelter with about 200 people under the verandah of the main government building in the main plaza. This was were I had my first taste of how small the local Oaxacan's really are. Most of the men came up to my nipples and the tall ones my shoulder and the woman were minuscule. We were packed in like sardines and I caused quite a stir on arrival dripping wet and twice their size. There was a fair amount of pointing, giggling and shuffling to get a better view. (not difficult as my head was well above everyone else's). There was a bit of chatter as well but the best interchanged happened directly behind me when one guy commented 'Look at how big she is. Her hair is just like the hair that grows off the corn' to which guy 2 to my left commented 'Dont be an asshole-she can understand Spanish'. Now, to be honest, I actually hadn't noticed/understood any of this (Marcela explained afterwards) but for some freakish, perfectly timed comedic reason I happened to turn around and smile at guy 1. He looked shocked and mortified at the same time and everyone around him erupted into laughter and much shoving. I would like to think he learnt a good lesson! I'm now know as 'Pello des Elotes' which translates to 'Hair of the Corn'. Or 'Guerrita' (pronounced War-ita) which means Blondie and is like a constant chanting soundtrack as we walk down the street. I've had worse.
Day two found us wandering around town soaking up the atmosphere and visiting as many shops, Museums and Galleries as possible. Oaxaca is famous for its largest church Santo Domingo and what a beauty it was. As you know I'm not a religious person but this church took my breathe away. It's certainly not the biggest, or the shiniest Church I've been to but there was something frankly magnificent about it. There was an almost irreverent atmosphere inside and that's not something churches normally inspire in me. My photos taken on my phone do it absolutely no justice at all. Almost to the point it's not worth showing them. But I will!
A delicious lunch, followed by more museums, galleries and the start of some serious shopping! We had a few drinks and ended up at I Love Tylludas at 11pm eating the favous 'oaxacan pizza'- a Tylluda! There was some discussion over how these would be popular in a food van so watch this space.....but don't hold your breath!
Our last full day dawned and we headed off to Monte Alban which is the site of some amazing Zapotecan (Zapotecs were the indigenous people) ruins. We promptly busted an American guy proposing to his girlfriend (I even had my camera out) but we appeared more excited than she was. She did say yes however. I'm not sure but she may have just been overwhelmed, or upset that his mum was right in her face with a camera, or us behind cheering and clapping when she said yes. It was very bizarre! Anyway-the ruins were amazing.
We then headed twenty minutes out of town in a shared taxi (they always looked a bit nervous when I got in..I think they were worried about where I would fit) to a local weekly market. It was great to get out of the tourist traps and I managed to get some really great Mexican treats-my new traditional aprons being my favourite! It caused quite a stir when I started trying them on and the lady who ran the store asked Marcela 'Is she really going to buy that...' Yes. Yes I am. We had one of my favourite lunches-quesadilla with Oaxacan cheese (a bit like mozzarella but better) and zucchini flowers and then headed back to town to find the Mecca of my Holiday-The Textiles Market.
I'm sure I don't need to tell you what happened in there but my pocket came out lighter and my bag considerably heavier. Our energy levels were down so we did what all good girls do in that situation-we turned to chocolate.
Hot Chocolate from Oaxaca is famous all over Mexico and we couldn't leave without sampling as much as possible. It's drunk French style from a bowl with sweet bread on the side. It's very sweet and flavored with cinnamon and sometimes with ground almonds. Awesome. Especially when it's made by a gorgeous Mexican Grandmother with approximately 4 teeth!
The day was topped off with some margaritas made from mezcal (the local drink) and a 2am Tyullda! It was really bizarre as we were sitting in a bar when what can only be described as a group of Mexican Ninja's came into the bar, checked behind the door, under the cushions on the couch and behind the door and left. So bizarre. They were actually the police in full SWAT gear with night goggles and even the Mexicans were confused. Later on at 2am we sat on the bench next to them at the Tyullda place and I gave them a little wave which caused a great deal of miggling (male giggling-I just made that up) and shoving. So not so scary after all!
All in all- I loved Oaxaca and the only thing that made me leave was the news that I was going to the Luchadores!!!!!
Ps here are some more random pictures:
hah. Pello des Elotes. I do believe that could catch on.
ReplyDeleteUh, more details about the textiles, please!
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