San Miguel De Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a magnificent colonial town about three hours from Mexico City. A few people recommended that I go but did warn me that it was a popular destination for Americans and that lots of retired foreigners live there. When I heard that there was a festival on the only weekend I had available called 'Festival de Los Locos' (Festival of the Crazies) I knew I had to go. 

So, we booked into a B&B located in an old brothel and got on our luxury coach. We missed our first bus by 3 minutes and  had to wait three hours for the next one but it turned out better as we ended up on the luxury coach for not much more money. It was like an airplane. We had reclining seats with foot rests, wifi, individual LCD screens with about 30 movies to choose from (all dubbed in Spanish unfortunately), snacks and an on board toilet.

(That blue thing folded down to make a comfortable ramp for your feet)

We arrived after a pleasant journey albeit three hours late and headed straight to the city centre to find some drinks and dinner. The streets of San Miguel are spectacular. Old Colonial style brightly coloured houses, cobbled streets, tree lined plazas and a church that looks like something out of Walt Disney but in a good way.

(Doesn't really do it justice but the best from off my phone)

We wandered up the hill to find a small saloon bar I had read about that served the best ceviche. We found it up a back street and we had a wonderful meal of cerviche on tostadas, aquachile and fish tacos washed down with icy cold Corona. Perfect!!!

(Cerviche-tastes way better than it looks)

Roberto, the guy who welcomed us at our hotel, also works in the local posh nightclub and had told us to go there later in the night so we headed off to find a bar for some drinks first. We had a recommendation from a friend of Marcela's but as we were walking down the road we heard the strains of Mariachi music. We found a tiny bar on a corner street with saloon style doors and a mariachi band all in white spilling into the street. We hustled in to find three big tables of Mexicans, two spare seats at the bar and not a single foreigner. Result. A couple of G&T's in and some amazing Mariachi music later we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves. Now, I had been astounded to notice that there was a table of about ten men, some of whom were wearing Mariachi jackets, cowboy boots or large hats. The most astounding thing about it was that they were all my height, or much taller. And all Mexican. I was amazed. Had I reached my Mecca? Was this were I would meet my six foot Jesus? They had consumed a large volume of tequila and had been eyeing us off when two of them finally got the courage up to come and talk to us. One of them was a bit older and had a Tom Selleck moustache and the other was thankfully about 6ft4, younger and better looking. The younger one was quite nice but unfortunately the older one was creepy and all over poor Marcela who looked absolutely terrified. They were real 'machos' which is what they are called in Mexico and were truck owners from the next state. It got to the point when we had to make an excuse we had to leave to meet a friend and that yes, we would definitely meet them at the club previously mentioned. Tom Selleck announced he would come with us to make sure we came to El Grito (the nightclub) but somehow we managed to escape. It was a shame as the younger one was actually not too bad but they were becoming a bit possessive and over the top. We ended up going home as it was after midnight by then and we nearly ran into them again in the main square when we were regrouping which made our decision for us. We were upset not to have gone to El Grito and more upset to find our the next day from Roberto that there was no way that they would have been let in! Dammit!  

The next day (Sunday) was our only full day and the day of the Festival. It involved about 50 floats with people in masks and costumes throwing lollies, blaring music in a procession style through the town. It was awesome and we skipped in and out of the procession throughout the day while wandering the side streets and visiting the local markets. I was still on the hunt for some cowboy boots but we just couldn't find any good ones. We had a wonderful day topped off by a gorgeous meal on a rooftop terrace overlooking the main church while fireworks went off. Some amazing churros con chocolate finished us and the day off and we rolled into bed.

(One of the best outfits of the day)

We headed back to Mexico City in anticipation of our booking at Pujol that night which had been voted 17th in the Worlds best restaurants. Sadly we were to find out that it was cancelled as there had been an earthquake (5.8) on Saturday night and the kitchen had been damaged. Dammit! Next time Gadget, next time. So we did what all good Mexicans do-we went and had tacos.

My last day in Mexico City dawned and I headed off to see Frida Kahlos house and the other house she and Diego shared as they are in suburbs near to each other. I had been desperate to go and headed off with Adam (the Tasmanian we met in Oaxaca) but was disappointed to find on arrival that most of Frida's house was closed for renovation but we managed to see her bedroom and studio which was exactly how she left it. Amazing. There was also a temporary exhibition of a stash of her clothes and jewellery that had recently been found which was spectacular. The other house was the first modernistic house built in Mexico and we were able to see Diego's studio which was beautiful and full of plenty of Mexican art and nick nacks. A last minute trip to the Artesan Market and a wonderful meal with all Patti and Marcela's family topped off a fantastic last day.

Tacos Tacos Tacos

I couldn't not dedicate a whole post to my favourite taco- Tacos el Pastor. It's a Mexico City specialty and is their version of a late night Souva or kebab. I love it and it was one of the foods I could not wait to have as its almost impossible to find in Melbourne. It's beautifully marinated thin slices of pork cooked Souva style but with a head of pineapple on top. It's served with thinly sliced pineapple, onion and coriander. Magic. There is a place that is famous for Tacos El Pastor and we went twice. Here is a photo montage of the Taco Bonanza.

La Luchas! A dream come true.

Now-most of you know that I have an unnatural obsession with Luchadores-the masked fighters of Mexico. They are a well recognised part of Mexican Culture and they are used in childrens TV to teach them about right and wrong. There are 'good' Luchas (Los Technicos) and 'bad' ones (Los Rudos). There are midget fighters, cross dressing ones and even female fighters. They take their mask wearing to an extreme-at one point a Lucha was involved in politics and used to wear his mask in Parliament. We thought maybe I could get into the industry and that my stage name should be 'La Kangaroo' (obviously said with a Mexican accent and in a WWF-esque voice). 

Last time I went to Mexico it was too dangerous to go and was informed if we went I would have to dress like a boy and cover my hair-but not this time!!!! I had heard a rumour that we might have been able to go but it wasn't until the tickets were purchased did I allow myself to get excited! And by crickey, was I excited! Most of you have heard what happened when I went to the Lucha Libre in London and if not I'm frankly surprised as I do like to whip it out at social occasions. 

I'm not going to go into great detail as the photos speak for themselves but we ended up with ringside seats, the costumes and drama were amazing and there were some choice things in spanish being yelled out around us. The best I could come up with my limited Spanish was 'Tu es gordito como mi abuela' which badly translates to 'you are fat like my grandmother' (sorry to both my grandmothers). Poor effort I know. We were filmed a number of times for TV screaming like Bogans. Sometimes being an enormous blonde in red lipstick pays off. Sometimes.

(Entrance!!)

(We couldn't quite work out if they were meant to be screws or sperm on his pants-obviously that puts a whole new spin on 'eat this')

(Papacito!)

(Imagine taking that home to your mum)

My phone ran out of storage so I wasn't able to get any photos from the last couple of fights which was a shame as they had some of the best costumes. Think Sombrero, Speedos with the mexican flag, fake gun and tassled boots. A midget in a day of the dead skeleton suit. A man in purple sparkly latex pants with flowers on his mask. I can't properly describe how bad/awesome they were. There were two 'Australian' fighters there- I don't use the '' lightly- as it was HIGHLY unlikely they were Australian, even the people sitting behind us were skeptical. Also, unfortunately I can't load videos! 

An amazing night and frankly, a dream come true! 

Oaxaca-The Land of the Tiny People

Six and a half hours on a bus from Mexico City gets you to Oaxaca (pronounced Waa-ha-car) -the Mexican state famous for food and textiles. I knew this was, for me, not to be missed. Marcela and I set off with a packed lunch and instructions to hide any valuables down the gap in our seat and I had my secret money pouch in its secret place....it tends to make you really nervous when the Mexicans are nervous. The buses here are pretty comfortable and show nonstop movies-sometimes with subtitles and sometimes with hilariously dubbing. It made me wonder if they get the same people to do the voice overs for a particular actor-or is it a different one each time? If there is noise with no dialogue ie: screaming or dare I say panting, is that dubbed or left as the original? I don't know but with 6 1/2 hours to kill I spent a bit of time thinking about it.

We arrived to find it hotter and more humid than Mexico City and we soon found our way to our B&B El Diablo y Sandia (The Devil and the Watermelon). Now, Marcela and I were doing the old 'if you could do anything what would it be' game on the bus and I had stated that I would love to open a cafe that did typical Mexican breakfasts and lunches with plain white walls, really courful hand painted furniture and kooky Mexican decorations which had a small hot sauce and textile shop on the side. Just a thought. Anyway, we walked into the B&B and were shocked into silence as this was it, but a B&B. Check out the website-F'ing A. 

(This is the only photo I have of the central breakfast area and it does not do it justice)

Maria the owner is kooky, friendly and likes to wear her hair in a Frida Kahloesque manor. We were given a warm welcome, map and a handful of recommendations. We were also introduced to the guy in the room next to us who hilariously lives in Hobart and runs a cafe that I love. Small world! The clouds were looking ominous so we headed off in the direction of the market to get some mole and hot chocolate-two things that Oaxaca is famous for. Unfortunately we only made it half way before the heavens opened and we were forced to find shelter with about 200 people under the verandah of the main government building in the main plaza. This was were I had my first taste of how small the local Oaxacan's really are. Most of the men came up to my nipples and the tall ones my shoulder and the woman were minuscule. We were packed in like sardines and I caused quite a stir on arrival dripping wet and twice their size. There was a fair amount of pointing, giggling and shuffling to get a better view. (not difficult as my head was well above everyone else's). There was a bit of chatter as well but the best interchanged happened directly behind me when one guy commented 'Look at how big she is. Her hair is just like the hair that grows off the corn' to which guy 2 to my left commented 'Dont be an asshole-she can understand Spanish'. Now, to be honest, I actually hadn't noticed/understood any of this (Marcela explained afterwards) but for some freakish, perfectly timed comedic reason I happened to turn around and smile at guy 1. He looked shocked and mortified at the same time and everyone around him erupted into laughter and much shoving. I would like to think he learnt a good lesson! I'm now know as 'Pello des Elotes' which translates to 'Hair of the Corn'. Or 'Guerrita' (pronounced War-ita) which means Blondie and is like a constant chanting soundtrack as we walk down the street. I've had worse.

Day two found us wandering around town soaking up the atmosphere and visiting as many shops, Museums and Galleries as possible. Oaxaca is famous for its largest church Santo Domingo and what a beauty it was. As you know I'm not a religious person but this church took my breathe away. It's certainly not the biggest, or the shiniest Church I've been to but there was something frankly magnificent about it. There was an almost irreverent atmosphere inside and that's not something churches normally inspire in me. My photos taken on my phone do it absolutely no justice at all. Almost to the point it's not worth showing them. But I will!

Attached to the side is the Museum which is one of the best regional ones I've been to. It gave me a fantastic overview of the history of the area and was in the most beautiful former Monastery.

A delicious lunch, followed by more museums, galleries and the start of some serious shopping! We had a few drinks and ended up at I Love Tylludas at 11pm eating the favous 'oaxacan pizza'- a Tylluda! There was some discussion over how these would be popular in a food van so watch this space.....but don't hold your breath!

Our last full day dawned and we headed off to Monte Alban which is the site of some amazing Zapotecan (Zapotecs were the indigenous people) ruins. We promptly busted an American guy proposing to his girlfriend (I even had my camera out) but we appeared more excited than she was. She did say yes however. I'm not sure but she may have just been overwhelmed, or upset that his mum was right in her face with a camera, or us behind cheering and clapping when she said yes. It was very bizarre! Anyway-the ruins were amazing.

We then headed twenty minutes out of town in a shared taxi (they always looked a bit nervous when I got in..I think they were worried about where I would fit) to a  local weekly market. It was great to get out of the tourist traps and I managed to get some really great Mexican treats-my new traditional aprons being my favourite! It caused quite a stir when I started trying them on and the lady who ran the store asked Marcela 'Is she really going to buy that...' Yes. Yes I am. We had one of my favourite lunches-quesadilla with Oaxacan cheese (a bit like mozzarella but better) and zucchini flowers and then headed back to town to find the Mecca of my Holiday-The Textiles Market. 

I'm sure I don't need to tell you what happened in there but my pocket came out lighter and my bag considerably heavier. Our energy levels were down so we did what all good girls do in that situation-we turned to chocolate. 

Hot Chocolate from Oaxaca is famous all over Mexico and we couldn't leave without sampling as much as possible. It's drunk French style from a bowl with sweet bread on the side. It's very sweet and flavored with cinnamon and sometimes with ground almonds. Awesome. Especially when it's made by a gorgeous Mexican Grandmother with approximately 4 teeth!

The day was topped off with some margaritas made from mezcal (the local drink) and a 2am Tyullda! It was really bizarre as we were sitting in a bar when what can only be described as a group of Mexican Ninja's came into the bar, checked behind the door, under the cushions on the couch and behind the door and left. So bizarre. They were actually the police in full SWAT gear with night goggles and even the Mexicans were confused. Later on at 2am we sat on the bench next to them at the Tyullda place and I gave them a little wave which caused a great deal of miggling (male giggling-I just made that up) and shoving. So not so scary after all!

All in all- I loved Oaxaca and the only thing that made me leave was the news that I was going to the Luchadores!!!!!

Ps here are some more random pictures:

Mexico Mexico Ra Ra Ra

Hola todos desde Mexico! I was looking forward to touching down in Mexico City. Back to the world of ATM's that work, wifi and hot water. Don't get me wrong-I loved Cuba and wasn't really missing those things but my hair was almost in one giant dreadlock and I was worried I had missed some exciting news from home in regards to the impending arrival of Baby D'E! However- I was most excited about seeing the family. And to eat some tacos el pastor. And to maybe see the Luchas. And really a whole heap of things. I was just really very excited in a truly Shugg fashion-which is the same as a four year old on Christmas Eve who has eaten way to many Lollies and has just potentially spied Father Christmas on his sleigh. Or like Augustus Gloop when he first stepped into Willy Wonka's and spied the Chocolate River. That kind of excited.

So-it was with this great excitement that I touched down ready to squeeze the Mexicans who were coming to collect me....except they weren't there.  Small moment of panic ensued but as soon as I turned on my phone there was a message to say traffic was really bad and they will be there soon. So I sat with my bags while all the Mexicans stared at me...so good to be here again! As we left the airport (after some squeezing and screaming) I noticed there were crowds of people, mainly girls, lining the road shouting and waving flags. I gave a few of them a wave feeling a bit self important and said to Marcela that she really didn't need to have bothered organizing such a reception for me to only be told that One Direction had arrived and there was a concert on. Dammit. 

We went out for dinner that night to a wonderful place in a square thronging with people (although with a population the same as Australia I'm pretty sure there is thronging everywhere) and had some tiny fried grasshoppers (Chapulines) on guacamole. Apparently when I go to Oaxaca I can eat the full sized ones and they are delicious....we shall see. There is something about the legs that upsets me.....

Patti and Marcela took me for a wonderful day of sightseeing in Downtown Mexico City on the Sunday. The first ridiculous purchase was made- I'd like to introduce you all to Frederico El Guapatito:

I can pretty much see the rolling of eyes from here! 

We wandered around and checked out the amazing architecture. The Cathedral in the main square was built directly on top of some Aztec pyramids (I'm pretty sure the Aztecs got the message at that point) and there are a number of indigenous people who converge there to perform medical and spiritual dances. I was still coughing like a banshee so we did consider paying the 10 pesos for them to cure me!

I was soon to learn that Mexicans eat lunch here at 3 and then dinner at about 9 and then tacos at 11-1am! So we went off to a famous traditional Mexican restaurant called El Cardinal. We had a dry soup of spaghetti cooked with chipotle (that really confused me-I would just call it spaghetti if there is no soup...), two types of mole, meat cooked in spices wrapped in a banana leaf, and some awesome salsas and desserts. All washed down with the first bit of red wine I'd had in weeks. I got to wear a bib and I managed to smile sweetly enough that the waiter let me slip it into my bag!!! I'm not sure why but an adult sized bib appealed to me, especially as this was embroidered. I might use it next time I eat Dry Spaghetti Soup.

(Dry spaghetti soup-can you see why I was confused?)

Day two in Mexico dawned and I was packaged off to the Dr to sort out my cough. There had been some concern over the verocity of my bark and so Marcela's boyfriend organised for me to see a consultant. He took two hours off work to escort me, translate, take me to the pharmacy and then to the clinic for my jab. Legend. Turns out I just needed a steroid shot and some unidentifiable tablets to sort my asthma out as it was in full overdrive post chest infection. It was expected that I could inject myself but when Bernie saw my face when I took a look at the size of the needle he took me to a clinic where I spent the best 30 pesos of my life on getting a nurse to do it. She thought it was pretty hilarious when I rolled up my sleeve and some hysterical laughing while miming informed me that actually I would have to drop my daks. So shot in bum and two minutes later was ready to go! Result! 

After that I was ready to see Marcela's dad Raul whom I adore-however I'm not sure he was quite ready for the sight of an enormous blonde leaning out of the car window yelling 'Papacito' as we drove past to the car park. Neither were the 15 people standing near him. He recovered and we had a lovely lunch. Followed by some drinks. Followed by tacos at 11pm.

Next stop Oaxaca!!! Home of food and handicrafts (Augustus Gloop just plunged head first into the chocolate river) Woo hoo!!!!

Cubanita!

I can't believe I've been to Cuba. I've wanted to go for so long. Its a place that has appealed to me since I executed my first badly out of time salsa steps. The music, the dancing, the architecture, the history, the people, the cars, the mojitos and the cigars. Visually it was just as I imagined and more. I'm sure there is no other place like it on Earth. As you step off the plane you feel like you have gone back in time 50 years but as you look closer you realise this is not true. It's not you that has gone back in time but its the Cuban's who are stuck in a slowly decaying city. There is mould on the outside of the buildings, the ornate stairs are rotted, and the chandelier's are missing pieces and no longer sparkling like they used to. However, I don't care. I love it and think its one of the most fascinating and visually imperfect and beautiful places I've been to in a long time. It has passion, history, romance, culture and an undertone of sadness. It has dignity. 

Sorry- I've gone all Ernest Hemmingway on you all- it must have been too many Daiquiri's at Floridita!!! I arrived and had a wonderful room in the Casa run by Alejandro and his family for my first night. Alejandro is a Dr who has three specialities but gets paid the same as the man who sweeps the street. He is unable to get permission from the Government to leave Cuba-even for a holiday-as an educated man he is considered at risk of finding a better job elsewhere and not coming back. He told me that most of his medical colleagues have second jobs that involve tourism, either running a Casa or driving a taxi or in the black market to make ends meet. He is passionate about medicine and despite all this fiercely proud of his city. He gave me a quick orientation walk to the centre of Havana and then deposited me on the Open Top Tour of Havana. I sat at the top in the humidity and soaked up the atmosphere of the city. 

Che and Fidel are everywhere. The people speak of them with reverence but in the next breathe tell you quietly that they have are not allowed to have Internet and can't currently buy toothbrushes or panadol. They are proud of their Revolutionary Heroes and the change they made but quietly tell you they don't know what the future holds. We were not badgered for money, but for soap, shampoo, medications and pens. It's wonderful that schooling and healthcare are free but is it any good if there are no jobs or no medications? 

After a wonderful day of sightseeing that included a stop to buy some old Cuban Cinema Posters from the ICAIC I headed to the hotel that heralded the start of a new tour and a new group of people. I was a bit anxious as I thought surely I can't get lucky twice with a great group. Also, at the time of booking there were only girls which made me a bit anxious as I think the dynamic is better with a mix of sexes. It turns out I could-and we had 4 boys including a set of identical twins. We hailed from Australia, UK, Spain, Dublin, France and the USA (we disguised the two Americans as Australians). A noisy group!! We headed out for dinner and some automatic bonding. 

The next day hailed a departure from Havana with a destination of Trinidad and a stop in Santa Clara. Santa Clara is the town that has the Memorial and burial site for Che Guvera and other members of the revolution. It was great to learn more about his life and history and I was surprised to learn that he has children of my parents age who still live in Havana.

We arrived in Trinidad which is a beautiful, sleepy town with cobbled streets and brightly coloured houses. We were sent off to our home stays in groups of four. My roomie Sophie and I were paired with a lovely French/Irish couple in a house with a a truly hospitable Cuban woman who did not stop smiling from the moment we arrived. She prepared us the best meal I had had in weeks and we felt very lucky in deed. We had a lovely two days in Trinidad with a hike, a swim in the waterfall, salsa lessons and a big night out that culminated in a trip to a nightclub in a cave. I'm not just talking about a little cave with a couple of stalactites made of plaster, this was a dinky di cave underground accessed by three flights of stairs outside the town. I've never seen anything like it and we spent the night dancing with the locals and sweating up a storm. I can't even describe how hot it was in there (bowels of hell come to mind...) but the only relief was that everyone was as sweaty as you! 

Now I'm not sure if this was related but the next morning I woke up with no voice at all. Nothing. Nada. Only a intermittent tiny little squeak. This was a bit like 'Happy Birthday' to everyone on the bus from me-but they were all very nice and said they missed my conversation....a Shugg with no voice is no Shugg at all! This lasted for three days as we travelled to Vinales and also included  a day in bed with vomiting. Awesome. Luckily our group included a nurse Amber and Dov, an infectious diseases Dr and they looked after me. It was also fortuitous that it happened on the wettest day on our tour in Vinales and I did not miss out on much. We had a divide in the group as some wanted to head back to Havana as we were really stuck in the rain. It was a shame the weather turned as we missed a day on an island at the beach but you can't do anything about the weather! So, we headed back to Havana a day early and attempted to visit a cigar factory, which was closed due to the humidity, a rum factory that was not operational due to the rain but we managed to visit an environmental community that was set up in the 80's. 

We had two great days in Havana sightseeing, dancing, drinking and enjoying the sights and sounds of the city. These included The Revolutionary Museum (intetesting but very one sided-and Anti-American), ICAIC and The Museo de Belles Artes which contained the Cuban Collection. It was one of the most enjoyable experiences I had had in an art gallery in a while. It was amazing to see a whole range of Cuban art I'm sure I can't see anywhere else in the world. Walking around Old Havana, the Cemetary (ask me what happened when I get home-very creepy) and a wonderful night of dancing at the famous Casa de la Musica. With heavy hearts (and sore heads) we said our goodbyes and departed for the next episode of our seperate adventures....except for Dov who coincidently was on my flight to Mexico. Tacos-here I come!

Disclaimer:

Unfortunately I'm writing this on a 6 hour bus journey in Mexico and as this nornally results in car sickness I'm currently going with a 61% chance that I'm going to projectile vomit on the tiny little Mexican Man sitting in front of me so I'm sorry things have become rushed and not as poetic but I've had some gentle reminders that I'm behind in posts so thought this was better than nothing!!!

Ps......

Sorry for the radio silence. No wifi in Cuba!!!! Will catch up on blogs in the next day or two if I can as just arrived in Mexico and things are going to be hectic/AMAZING! Been here three hours, already eaten fried tiny grasshoppers on Guacamole........F'ing A!